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Tahitian pearls are classified as black pearls. They come from black-lipped pearl oysters (Pinctada margaritifera) which secrete the dark nacre that creates their extraordinary color. Despite their name, Tahitian pearls do not come from the famed island; they are actually grown in French Polynesia and sold in Tahiti which is the central trading post for Tahitian black pearls.
Tahitian pearls possess an exotic beauty unmatched by other gems. Unlike traditional pearls, their bodies display naturally dark colors with a wide range of overtones including creamy white, silver, gold, "peacock" (green with pink overtones), pale blue, slate grey midnight black and many shades in between.
Unusual shapes and remarkable luster add to the allure of Tahitian pearls.
Bead-nucleation is the most common method of cultivating Tahitian pearls; therefore round symmetrical shapes are common. They appear in other desirable shapes such as "baroque" (out-of-round) which are quite lovely and the favorite of many pearl enthusiasts. "Semi-baroque" includes buttons, ovals, drops and all of their variations. (Due to its rarity, many pearl experts consider a perfect drop to be just as valuable as a perfect round.) Lastly, some Tahitian pearls have distinctive circular rings embedded around their center. For unknown reasons, these banded or "circle" pearls can be the most colorful.
Tahitian black pearls that have been nucleated typically range in size from 7 to 18mm in diameter. Larger pearls exist but anything beyond 16mm is extremely rare. Tahitian pearls are known world-wide for the integrity of their nacre thickness; the Tahitian government imposes a minimum thickness of.8mm on all pearls exported. Any pearl that does not meet this requirement is ground into a fine powder.
The Culturing Process
Pearl cultivation is a labor of love. Exact details vary from farm-to-farm and from species- to-species. For example, oysters can be collected or bred, and the period of caring for them before they are implanted varies. Generally speaking, the implantation process is as follows:
- The animals are cleaned and a skilled grafter performs a quick and precise "surgery" of implanting a bead nucleus made of organic material (often mother of pearl: the hard pearly inner layer of certain mollusk shells).
- The bead nucleus is followed by a bit of mantle tissue from another mollusk. The mantle tissue contains cells that ensure the production of conchiolin and nacre. By giving the host animal a bit of familiar tissue, risk of nuclei rejection is reduced. The grafter's choice of mantle tissue contributes to the pearl's natural color.
- After the animal is implanted with nuclei it must be carefully maintained in clean, healthy waters to avoid unnecessary disturbances.
Once an oyster is implanted, it begins to secrete calcium carbonate (nacre) that coats the bead nucleus. This pearly layer naturally develops irregularities in direct relation to thickness; therefore, it has to be kept extremely thin to appear flawless.
Happy Waters + Happy Oysters = Beautiful Tahitian Pearls
Cultured pearls are the "canaries" of their host waters. As animals will not prosper in polluted waters, neither will pearls grow. Tragic examples have occurred in the coastal waters off of Japan, and also in their fresh waters. Lake Biwa and Lake Kasumigaura both halted pearl production due to unclean waters. The perpetrator in both cases was tainted runoff from nearby industry.
It is the overwhelming responsibility of any pearl farmer to ensure clean water for their animals. Throughout the entire precious gem industry, pearl cultivators are the only group that acts as environmental protectors. As mountains are moved in search of gems and precious metals, and impoverished people are made to work in mines against their will, it is refreshing to know that the existence of pearls is a testament to healthy water and passionate farmers throughout the world.
For more information about Tahitian pearls, please visit Kojima Company online.
Sarah Canizzaro is owner and lead jewelry designer at Kojima Company, which she founded in 2001. Her love for pearls began in childhood while she accompanied her father on diving trips along the California coastline near her home. At age 17, she began working as a pearl stringer for Pacific Pearls, an international pearl retailer. To this day, Kojima Company maintains a close alliance with Pacific Pearls. Soon, she began apprenticing for the company's owner until it was time to strike out on her own. To this day, Kojima Company maintains a close alliance with Pacific Pearls.
Currently, Sarah travels the world collecting both pearls and gemstones for her one-of-a-kind designs. She collaborates with several jewelers in the U.S. and Vietnam. Sarah's greatest pleasure is designing and making jewelry, especially when it makes people smile.
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