Screw Chicken Drinker



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Screw Chicken Drinker

I'm not a snob when it comes to food, so when I was asked by my editor to review everything authentic I could find in Puerto Rico, I had no problem saying yes. I was there for almost three months, and I found some really interesting finds in the mix. What I found most interesting was how much I missed American levels of service and the really unique finds like the Red and Green Steakhouse in Atlanta.

I had read a pretty interesting article about Brazilian Steakhouses that said there are only four good ones outside of Brazil. To my coincidental surprise, the article said that one of the best in the world is a Brazilian Steakhouse in Atlanta. My heart dropped, my mouth moistened, and even before I heard the engine purr I just knew my car was outside waiting for me.

I'd never been to a Brazilian Steakhouse before, so despite my research in advance, I was still a bit surprised when they didn't bring me a menu. You don't order your food, your food is instead left to beckon to you. In my case, and I have to admit it had been quite a week between coming home and getting my stateside business in order, I was famished.

It would not be until later that I would learn my true ability to put food away, and my capability to feel so little remorse for doing so.

My expectations were pretty high, since this place has earned high marks from everyone who has reviewed it, and I was half-tempted to play the journalist card to get the VIP treatment, but my expense account had come in under budget, so I had some cash to play with and see how the regular people are treated.

The salad bar has easily a couple hundred items (without any exaggeration,) and everything is as fresh, authentic and tasty as I could have expected. My only reservation was the knowledge I'd soon be shown endless amounts of premium, fresh-grilled meats to enjoy.

The meats on skewers did indeed come endlessly, and my favorites included the sausage, the bacon-wrapped chicken and probably three or four of the assorted beef offerings. The sirloin and rib-eye were especially exceptional, and it should come as no surprise, apparently the Red and Green Steakhouse only offers Angus cuts of beef.

My friend ordered us a bottle of wine from Uruguay, since he's also a travel writer, and he had enjoyed the wine before. "Just watch," he said, "they're going to totally screw it up." I'm not much of a wine drinker myself, but he assured me and I agreed, this was an exceptionally well matched wine for the dinner we had. I wrote down the name but my notes don't match anything I can find online, but it was rich, aromatic while not overbearing, and full-bodied without being bitter. The wine selection at the Red & Green is so vast it requires (and gets) its own humidor near the entrance.

We must have spent three-hours in the dining room, socializing, catching up on our latest writing jobs and otherwise eating, drinking, and be-merrying ourselves halfway to silliness. The bottle emptied quickly and we switched over to the Caipirinha, which is essentially the Brazilian equivalent of a Margarita. Tasty as all get out, intoxicating as you can stand, and the perfect compliment to such an evening.

When the bill came my friend decided it was going on his expense account rather than my own. He had been to another steakhouse in town, a media darling despite being an international mega-conglomerate, and he couldn't believe the bill in front of us. The other big one, and I won't name them because they're good people and I don't want to defame them, charge almost exactly 200% of what the Red & Green Steakhouse charges, and their food is inarguably equal at best. The Red & Green Steakhouse has a great atmosphere, exceptional cooks, and a wait staff that really seems to enjoy the service trade, even by southern standards.

Always one to look out for my friends as much as my next likelihood of promotion, I convinced him we should split the check. Bear in mind this was a Friday night, we spent about three-hours in there, had a bottle of wine and a couple extra drinks a piece, my half of the bill was still under $40, and I have to tell you, we lived large that night. We ate ourselves silly, drank ourselves stupid, and I haven't been able to get the place out of my head ever since.

Now if you could recommend a nice girl in Atlanta I might take to such a place, I'd really be in your debt.

Puerto Rico has all kinds of food, and based on the free trade and near proximity to South America, has a good amount of very cheap beef, often served with masterful craft. I've had trouble finding food to my liking in Puerto Rico, though there are those exceptions. What I've found that's surprising, and it shouldn't be since the place has already been lauded by the critics, is an affordable place in Atlanta that offers the finest cuts of beef, the best wine selection this side of the vineyard and a wait staff as friendly as any I've seen in the south, and easily ten-times friendlier than any in Puerto Rico.

The Red & Green Steakhouse is not just a good restaurant, it's a destination. If you've never had Brazilian gaucho-style fare, or if you've missed it and have a hankering for more, this is the place to go and I'll stake my steak reputation on it.

For more articles by Brian White, please visit About Shanghai.

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