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This is our second review of Australian wine in just a few weeks. You may realize that Australia is a major wine exporter especially to the United States and the United Kingdom. While this wine was bottled in the Hunter Valley region of New South Wales in Australia's southwest, the grapes come from the Geographical Indication of Beechworth in New South Wales neighbor, Victoria. Beechworth was once a great place to dig for gold and is now considered a fine wine region, in particular for Chardonnay and fortified wines. If money is no object look for Giaconda's wines, including their Pinot Noir.

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed

Pinot Noir New South Wales (Brokenwood Winery) 2005 14.0% alcohol about $20

There were no marketing materials so I'll quote the back label. This Pinot Noir is sourced from Victoria's exciting Beechworth region, in the lower region of the Alpine Valleys. A very hot, dry season giving concentrated flavors... This is a ripe style with background French Oak and sappy/cherry Pinot fruit. The palate has strawberry flavors and lingering soft tannins. Drink over the short term with duck and Asian dishes. Our wines are now sealed with screw cap to guarantee quality and consistency.

Re screw caps: I want to mention that when I used adjustable pliers the bottle opened nicely. And now for my review.

At the first sips the wine was quite powerful with good length and tobacco but no tannins. I first paired this wine with a dry barbecued chicken breast and a tastier chicken leg. This Pinot Noir was very present with some chocolate when it met the white meat. When it faced the chicken leg it was somewhat too acidic. On the upside, this wine was chewy and mouth filling. Once again there was tobacco and no tannins.

The next meal centered around a middle-eastern specialty called as kube, ground beef in crushed bulgar jackets in a slightly sour, delicious broth containing lots of Swiss Chard. This Pinot Noir was thick. I even got a taste of tar and black licorice. There was a lot of body but, at the risk of repeating myself, there were no tannins. They didn't seem to be missing. I tasted dark fruit, especially black cherries. I finished the meal with some smoked almonds and tasted tobacco and some earth.

Then I went to fatty beef ribs that had been slowly cooked with soft wheat kernels. There was a side of moderately spicy guacamole. The Pinot Noir was round and thick with a lot of oak and a good length. Its acidity worked well with the meat's grease. Not only the meat was chewy and it presented black, black cherries. The wine retained some of its power and all of its length when paired with the guacamole.

With some Matjes herring the wine was long, balanced, and mouth filling. The herring didn't get in the way. A local Provolone actually weakened this Pinot Noir at first its acidity became slightly harsh. A tastier Swiss slightly weakened the wine but it was still powerful and long, oaky with the taste of tobacco.

Final verdict. This wine is definitely worth buying again and again. Next time I won't waste it on the cheese. And maybe someday I'll try Giaconda's offerings. You'll be the first to know.

Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would rather just drink fine Italian, French, or other wine, accompanied by the right foods and spend time with his wife and family. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario French-language community college. Among his many web sites he is particularly proud of his Italian travel site with a special focus on regional food and wine at http://www.travelitalytravel.com. Check out his global wine website at http://www.theworldwidewine.com with his weekly column reviewing $10 wines and his new sections writing about (theory) and tasting (practice) organic and kosher wines, and now upscale wines.

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